
Got off the bus too soon and had to walk about 3 miles to Trisuli, which is at about 1500 feet and much lower than Kathmandu and very hot. Met a couple who had just come down from Langtang and said bad things about Gosainkund, where it is apparently freezing and you need a porter to carry firewood – but as I shall be eating cold sardines I don’t see that it will matter. Anyhow, it will all doubtless prove much harder than the man at the trekking shop made out. Walked up the river for about an hour towards Betrawati and then got a lift with a truck the rest of the way along the ‘road’ – decided, although it was only 2pm to stop the night as I had blisters coming up already.
Probably right because now, as I write, there is a fearful storm brewing and an almighty gale blowing. Sleep upstairs under the eaves, which is OK if I don’t get wet. It’s pouring (teeming) now. Checked out my route for tomorrow, and sat and talked in one of the several teashops that sell soap and cigarettes and little else. Already I am right out in the wilds where consumer goods are a thing of the future – it’s only a tiny village populated largely by animals and people down from the hills waiting to carry off the provisions brought in by the truck – they really carry incredible loads with their headstraps, walking always barefoot – I wonder how I shall fare – increasingly anxious. Light going fast – ‘dinner’ of rice and potatoes will be at 7, until when I sit and dream, and then straight to bed.