Woke at 5 and after a cup of tea set out at quarter to six up miles of steps and a very steep path to Katunje and then Manigaon and Ramche. I walked with a Nepali guy who’s up here on some business or other. Ramche is at 4,500’ and there I had ‘lunch’ of rice and potatoes at 9.30. I had stopped earlier to buy some lovely bananas and a cup of tea that tasted of kerosene. A storm was brewing and again a fearful wind, with clouds swirling and racing at you rather than over you, heralded a downpour that lasted till just before 1.
I sat huddled in a sweater and a woolly jacket and was still cold – am a little worried about the temperature at Gosainkund. Then pressed on along a fairly flat stretch, all the time up a beautiful river valley which drew further and further below intil one could hardly make out the river when I arrived at the tiny village Thari at just over 6,000’. Here are half a dozen stone houses with no plaster or cement, but which are more than solid. Had two cups of tea in the one cottage that serves as a rest-house and planned to stay the night, though I arrived at about 2.45 because my legs were quite achesome. Took a couple of photos and then sat and read Krishnamurti, which proved very stimulating, in spite of the hordes of barely-clad kids begging me for cigarettes. I watch the sunset now, largely obscured by clouds, and shiver in full dress.
The path is a very good one and so many people use it, carrying immense loads and there are many well-made steps which is preferable to scrambling up hills on all fours. My ankle still hurts and I am a little worried about my stomach, but that may just be hunger or eating my rice too fast. Passed two Europeans racing the other way, who barely had time to say hello. Here are many potatoes, and perhaps some maize (I’m not sure) growing. Now, as it gets dark I retire to huddle round the fire and eat – is anything eternal? Krishnamurti doesn’t really say and rightly so – I must try and discover.
I sat huddled in a sweater and a woolly jacket and was still cold – am a little worried about the temperature at Gosainkund. Then pressed on along a fairly flat stretch, all the time up a beautiful river valley which drew further and further below intil one could hardly make out the river when I arrived at the tiny village Thari at just over 6,000’. Here are half a dozen stone houses with no plaster or cement, but which are more than solid. Had two cups of tea in the one cottage that serves as a rest-house and planned to stay the night, though I arrived at about 2.45 because my legs were quite achesome. Took a couple of photos and then sat and read Krishnamurti, which proved very stimulating, in spite of the hordes of barely-clad kids begging me for cigarettes. I watch the sunset now, largely obscured by clouds, and shiver in full dress.
The path is a very good one and so many people use it, carrying immense loads and there are many well-made steps which is preferable to scrambling up hills on all fours. My ankle still hurts and I am a little worried about my stomach, but that may just be hunger or eating my rice too fast. Passed two Europeans racing the other way, who barely had time to say hello. Here are many potatoes, and perhaps some maize (I’m not sure) growing. Now, as it gets dark I retire to huddle round the fire and eat – is anything eternal? Krishnamurti doesn’t really say and rightly so – I must try and discover.
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